Wednesday, 17 July 2013

Day 3 - 14/07/13

The holiday has arrived. But the good weather regrettably hasn't!

After arriving at my lovely beach-side hostel at about 1pm yesterday I immediately befriended a very comely collective of Irish girls: six trainee dentists studying in Dublin who are travelling around before beginning a summer elective in Honduras. They are a great deal of fun, which has proven crucial, since the weather did not really allow for much yesterday.

I enjoyed a rainy session of basketball with Nielle, Nessa and a couple of local kids. We also booked up a full snorkelling trip and had a lovely dinner in the Enjoy restaurant: a whole grilled lobster for 22BZ (about 8 pounds!) It was gorgeous and the half-price cocktails were also a real perk.

Drinking then continued predictably with various amusements - by this point we had been joined by Leah's boyfriend Rory and an Australian chap called Michael. We only continued till about 2am though, wishing to save ourselves for today's snorkelling.

We needn't have bothered! It has truly reached epic monsoon levels of wind and rain here and the trip was quickly cancelled. We are now booked in for tomorrow and hopefully the weather will improve. It is a shame because it is such a lovely island but it's hard to do much in these conditions!

*

I have had a good day! Despite initially being holed up in our hostel, confined to Monopoly and tea, won by Rory (Monopoly, that is; not tea. Everyone's a winner with tea), things did calm down and Leah, Rory and I went out for some lunch at a pizza place, the waiter of which was a salient specimen of the Belizean way: exceptionally slow, cripplingly stoned but eager to treat us as best friends. We saw him again much later on, cycling round in circles and wearing two hats. I love this island.

Lunch quickly became an afternoon of drinking and soon we stumbled upon by far the most chilled and atmospheric bar we have found. I think it is called 'Bamboozle'; it has swings at the bar, is made entirely of bamboo, sells delicious rum cocktails and has a sign that says 'Happy Hour - 4pm 'til everybody happy'. We make three separate visits.

We have Chinese for dinner and then drinking games in our hostel, which serve as an effective tonic for our ensuing trip to the Reggae Bar. Only Mary, Chloe along with Rory, Leah and I make it there, though, from the original group, plus an American guy called JD and a Canadian called Kyle.

The night draws to a close, as did the previous, at the only nightclub on the island.

Almost. Against everyone's best advice I accepted an invitation by a local Belizean man to go back to his for a drink!

And very glad I am too that I took the gamble. He was a thoroughly hospitable and interesting chap who took a particular shine to me because I was British: an ex-Belizean soldier, he had been trained by the British Army. He loves the British Army. Although Belize has been independent since 1981, apparently Britain has been discreetly helping them in military matters at various times since.

He shows me an old British Army training manual that he has wrapped carefully in brown paper. I have never seen a book like this before and am genuinely impressed. I now know how many sidesteps to the right I must make before releasing a second burst of gunfire at a stationary target.

"But what about the Americans?" I say. "They have a much more powerful army."

"The Americans are good," he says. "I have fought with Americans. But the British - the British are the best."

I nod.

Day 2 - 13/07/13

Right. It is really quite some time since the last entry and, while this does technically situate the current moment in Day 2, in reality I am still in the middle of my very long outward journey.

I say the middle: actually we are only about an hour from landing at Houston, Texas and from there it's straight onto another hour-and-a-half flight to Belize City. By the time I've got my water taxi to Caye Caulker and found my hostel I imagine it'll be around 2pm - still seven hours from now.

Nevertheless, the parts of the voyage already in my wake dwarf these remaining hours - I had a very comatose 8-hour flight from Heathrow to Newark (thanks to the alcohol) and then a somewhat hungover trip through Newark customs and immigration before finding my gate for the next leg with - owing to delays - only 3 hours to kill.

I did my best to lay out a bed on the pretty unwelcoming floor and drifted off in sufficient snatches to leave me feeling discernibly revived upon rousing to board. After another little nap during this flight, we now descend into Houston with me feeling much more equipped to deal with the day ahead. I've never seen Texas before - exciting!

*

I've finally arrived in Belize but to torrential rain! Of the tropical sort that you don't really get in England. And it has only arrived this morning!

Such is my happiness at having finally arrived in the country, however, that the rain has not dampened my spirits though it has certainly dampened everything else. It would be a shame if it were to persist into tomorrow, though: I have been looking forward to a nice, chilled beach-like beginning to my holiday.

Currently, I am awaiting the water taxi, eating some stew chicken!

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Day 1 - 12/07/2013

"Which flight are you on, sir?"

"The six o'clock."

"Right. I'm afraid that flight's been cancelled, sir."

"Oh really?" (First surge of adrenalin of the holiday, and it's a big one.)

"Technical difficulties at Newark. Do you have your passport?"

"Yes, here."

Silence of unbearable tension.

"Okay, I'm afraid the next flight's not till the same time tomorrow, sir."

Think. What would Gandhi do if he were in my situation right now? Probably denounce Western civilization, no doubt and not be found in a major European restaurant. No help. Mandela? Right now, he'd probably fall over and die. No, I am going to have to work this one out on my own.

"But I can't miss my connecting flights. I have a wedding." I can never resist cranking up the guilt-trip stakes with such fabrications. If this escalates I'm going to have to move up to 'Dying Mother'...

"I appreciate that, sir. Well, if you'd like to make your way to Desk 3 they will see what they can do."

*

Well! What they could do was very graciously fit me in on the 20:30 Virgin flight, which causes no real aggravation to me since I have an overnight wait at Newark anyway. I feel this very satisfactory solution to the crisis is most richly deserved, given the calm and collected manner with which I conducted myself throughout. I also managed to squeeze every one of my sub-100ml bottles into the provided clear plastic bag, save one mere, paltry tub of Vaseline (filthy anal nights with Nicaraguan hookers will just have to find their own lubricants) and I'm now through all the official bollocks and into the departure lounge.

Things have really picked up since the initial fiasco, thanks to a cracking choice of wine to accompany my somewhat indulgent (but I'm on holiday - fuck it) steak and chips for dinner. I selected an absolutely corking Rioja: Crianza Solemanero (don't know the vintage) that really held its own against the bearnaise sauce in a way that I don't think the Chateau Tour de Barreil I was flirting with quite could have. (I can't believe I just wrote that sentence.)

The Rioja is so good, in fact, that I've ordered another large glass. Probably didn't need that Staropramen as well.

*

Having not even moved from the table I sat down at for dinner, I have already had interesting conversations with a couple of people. One lady is Swedish and works in finance. She is by no means a spare wheel in the discussion but is decidedly less interesting than the other guy, a lecturer in European law in Bristol of all places! He answers my questions about the various conventions of human rights law and the ways in which Britain is and isn't bound to these different conventions. It sounds complicated. I remark on this level of complexity and posit the notion that those members of the public who might take part in a referendum on these issues may not do so fully acquitted with the knowledge necessary to make an informed judgment. My associate replies that this may well be exactly what the Euro-skeptics are banking on.

*

More drinks. Some people going to Helsinki. Their flight has been delayed too. One is them is from York and works in TV. Through to the departure lounge. Drunken crossword. Board plane. Flying.

Thursday, 11 July 2013

Hello everybody. Welcome to Jamie and Kieran's blog covering our trip to Central America, which begins tomorrow. Please follow!